Solyanka for the villager: truth and myths about the legendary dish

History of the dish

Solyanka is one of the classic dishes of Russian cuisine. It was especially popular in rural regions, for which at one time it was even called “selyanka”. Gradually, the townspeople also tried this wonderful delicacy. It began to be served in aristocratic and even royal houses.

Solyanochka was very popular in the Soviet Union. If they had the necessary ingredients, skilled housewives prepared it at home. A completely acceptable option could be enjoyed in a restaurant or catering canteen. Very often, hodgepodge was included in the menu of various sanatoriums, whose task was to improve the health and “feed” Soviet workers.

A unique variation of the dish can also be found in Germany. The Germans also love rich meat soups with a spicy taste. In Germany, you can enjoy hodgepodge in good restaurants with a focus on national cuisine. It is also sold in supermarkets in the form of canned food, but this is not for everybody. The taste of real homemade hodgepodge cannot be replaced by any semi-finished product.

Excerpt characterizing Solyanka

“Nathalie, vos cheveux, [Natalie, your hair,” Sonya whispered. The steward politely and hastily slipped in front of the ladies and opened the door of the box. The music began to be heard brighter through the door, the illuminated rows of boxes with the bare shoulders and arms of the ladies, and the noisy stalls glittering with uniforms flashed. The lady who was entering the adjacent benoir looked at Natasha with a feminine, envious gaze. The curtain had not yet risen and the overture was playing. Natasha, straightening her dress, walked along with Sonya and sat down, looking around at the illuminated rows of opposite boxes. The feeling that she had not experienced for a long time that hundreds of eyes were looking at her bare arms and neck suddenly seized her both pleasantly and unpleasantly, evoking a whole swarm of memories, desires and worries corresponding to this feeling. Two remarkably pretty girls, Natasha and Sonya, with Count Ilya Andreich, who had not been seen in Moscow for a long time, attracted everyone’s attention. In addition, everyone vaguely knew about Natasha’s conspiracy with Prince Andrei, they knew that since then the Rostovs had lived in the village, and they looked with curiosity at the bride of one of the best grooms in Russia. Natasha became prettier in the village, as everyone told her, and that evening, thanks to her excited state, she was especially beautiful. She amazed with the fullness of life and beauty, combined with indifference to everything around her. Her black eyes looked at the crowd, not looking for anyone, and her thin, bare arm above the elbow, leaning on the velvet ramp, obviously unconsciously, in time with the overture, clenched and unclenched, crumpling the poster. “Look, here’s Alenina,” said Sonya, “it seems like she’s with her mother!” - Fathers! Mikhail Kirilych has grown even fatter,” said the old count. - Look! Our Anna Mikhailovna is in a state of flux! - Karagin, Julie and Boris are with them. The bride and groom are now visible. – Drubetskoy proposed! “Why, I found out today,” said Shinshin, who was entering the Rostovs’ box. Natasha looked in the direction in which her father was looking and saw Julie, who, with pearls on her thick red neck (Natasha knew, sprinkled with powder), was sitting with a happy look, next to her mother. Behind them, Boris’s smoothly combed, beautiful head could be seen with a smile, his ear tilted towards Julie’s mouth. He looked at the Rostovs from under his brows and, smiling, said something to his bride. “They talk about us, about me and him!” thought Natasha. “And he truly calms his bride’s jealousy of me: there is no need to worry! If only they knew how much I don’t care about any of them.” Anna Mikhailovna sat behind her in a green current, with a devoted will of God and a happy, festive face. In their box there was that atmosphere - the bride and groom that Natasha knew and loved so much. She turned away and suddenly everything that was humiliating in her morning visit came back to her. “What right does he have to not want to accept me into his kinship? Oh, it’s better not to think about it, not to think about it until he arrives!” She said to herself and began to look around at the familiar and unfamiliar faces in the stalls. In front of the stalls, in the very middle, leaning his back to the ramp, stood Dolokhov with a huge, combed-up shock of curly hair, in a Persian suit. He stood in full view of the theater, knowing that he was attracting the attention of the entire audience, as freely as if he were standing in his room. The most brilliant youth of Moscow stood crowded around him, and he apparently took precedence among them. Count Ilya Andreich, laughing, nudged the blushing Sonya, pointing her to her former admirer. - Did you recognize it? - he asked. “And where did he come from,” the count turned to Shinshin, “after all, he disappeared somewhere?” “Disappeared,” answered Shinshin. - He was in the Caucasus, and there he escaped, and, they say, he was a minister for some sovereign prince in Persia, he killed the Shah’s brother there: well, everyone is going crazy and the Moscow ladies are going crazy! Dolochoff le Persan, [The Persian Dolokhov,] and that’s it. Now we have no word without Dolokhov: they swear by him, they call him like a sterlet,” said Shinshin. - Dolokhov, and Anatol Kuragin - they drove all our ladies crazy.

Features and usefulness

The dish is a rich soup with many ingredients. Prepared in a strong meat (mushroom/fish) broth. Solyanochka combined several traditional Russian recipes, for which it received the definition of “team”. She got cabbage and sour cream from the cabbage soup, and pickled cucumbers from the pickle soup.

There are many recipes for preparing this dish. All contain pickled cucumbers and cabbage, olives, herbs, potatoes, and carrots. If the solyanka is meaty, ham, pieces of boiled beef, pork or chicken are added to it. In Soviet times, sausages and boiled sausage began to be added to this dish. This tradition has stuck and remains relevant to this day.

Mushroom solyanka is made from fresh or dried boletus mushrooms, champignons and other mushrooms. Fish - from salmon, pike perch, cod. The richness of taste is created by the combination of different types of fish. Lemon highlights the piquancy of the ingredients well.

Solyanka is a very satisfying and nutritious dish. Depending on its components, its calorie content ranges from 69 to 100 Kcal per 100 g. Solyanochka is excellent as a first course for feeding the whole family.

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Her Majesty is SOLYANKA! (team, meat). By popular demand (after my fish soup), I present to your consideration this culinary masterpiece, invented on our Russian soil. Probably not many soups can boast of “non-French” origin. I “tweaked” this recipe for myself, making some adjustments, but you can put together your own hodgepodge. Taste and color...J

As usual, a little history. (if you're bored, skip this section and immediately grab a pan and a knife . One of the most delicious and nutritious first courses is undoubtedly solyanka. This is a soup that is traditionally prepared in a strong broth. Fish, meat or mushroom broth is usually used. Linguists say , that the name solyanka is due to the fact that salty products are used in its preparation, such as pickles, olives, capers. In old cookbooks there is a recipe only for fish selyanka, on the basis of which it can be argued that it was originally a fish dish. Cooking recipe Solyanka changed significantly over time, they began to add tomato, lemons, sausages. Solyanka is an original Russian dish. True, it was previously called selyanka, and only in the second half of the 19th century there are references to the new name. This ancient dish is mentioned in cookbooks dated XVIII century. True, in those days selyanka was considered a fish dish. Also, the recipe underwent significant changes with the advent of tomatoes in Russia. Today it is impossible to imagine hodgepodge without tomato. At all times, this spicy, aromatic and nutritious soup has been the signature dish of Russian restaurants. Foreign guests always order it as a calling card of Russia. The phrase “hodgepodge” has become a catchphrase in the Russian language to summarize a certain motley mixture of ingredients, information, etc. That’s right, “sbornaya selyanka” is one of the tavern dishes of Russian cuisine. Selyanka - from the word, rural. That is, a rural dish that villagers eat. However, over time, the letter “e” was replaced by “o” and the selyanka turned into a solyanka. Actually, this did not happen by chance - after all, this is the name of spicy soups that combine the components of cabbage soup (cabbage, sour cream) and pickle (pickles, cucumber pickle) with a significantly enhanced sour-salty-spicy base as a result of the addition of seasonings such as olives, capers, lemon, lemon juice, kvass, salted mushrooms. It’s clear that what the villagers ate was only vaguely similar to a restaurant dish. The villagers took the leftover food, dumped it into a cauldron and cooked it into a prefabricated stew - selyanka. In taverns and restaurants they operated on the same principle, but the products used bore little resemblance to rural assemblies, both in composition and quality. The restaurant's "village team" supplied the highest quality products, and this dish was traditionally considered the hallmark of the establishment. The process of preparing the dish over the years has turned into a whole ritual that had to be carefully observed to obtain the desired result. Although formally hodgepodge is considered the first course, due to its consistency and caloric content, it replaces both the first and second courses. Based on their density, they distinguish between liquid and thick hodgepodge. And on the base - fish, meat and mushroom. An obligatory component of the first two is lemon. To prepare any hodgepodge, onions, capers, pickles, olives, tomato paste, lemon, butter, aromatic spices and herbs are used. The most important condition for preparing a delicious meat hodgepodge is the quality of the meat used. If you can use cheap varieties of meat in ordinary cabbage soup or borscht, then for a dish like solyanka, the cooking recipe involves using only the best meat, sausages and ham. In addition, you can use semi-smoked sausage and boiled tongue. The main difference between meat solyanka and other first courses is the relatively small amount of liquid. So for soup - hodgepodge of meat, the recipe suggests using a third less water than for regular soup or borscht. Mixed meat solyanka is probably the only first dish in Russian cuisine where potatoes are never added. But now, some people put it in. Well, put it in for your health if you want. I don't put it. In addition, meat solyanka is perhaps the only first dish that can be served at the holiday table. To prepare hodgepodge of meat, you usually take a pan with thick walls (cauldron, goose pan or duck pot). In such a vessel, the hodgepodge of meat simmers during the cooking process and, as a result, has a richer taste compared to preparing it in a regular vessel. And if you cook the mixed meat solyanka in clay pots, the taste will be unique. I bought a clay saucepan especially for her, which you see in the photo. Solyanka is a prefabricated meat solyanka; the recipe for its preparation can have many variations. Some recipes suggest adding fresh cabbage and salted mushrooms to it. If you don’t have pickled cucumbers on hand, you can use sauerkraut for the meat hodgepodge. The beauty of a hodgepodge is that each housewife can prepare it in her own way, based on the availability of ingredients and her own taste, and it will not cease to be a hodgepodge. But it tastes better when there are more types of meat. At least not less than five. Solyanka should be served immediately. Solyanka meat does not tolerate heating, and it loses its unique taste. Unlike, for example, cabbage soup, which tastes better the next day. And I’ll also add from myself: just like HASH, it saves you from a severe hangover. Ingredients: (for 2 liters of water) For the broth: - 300-500 g of beef (veal) on the bones (or even just bones, well, with the meat of course. For added fat. The broth should be strong, it’s tastier this way), - 300 g pork ribs with meat, of course, in the broth. - bones from smoked ribs and shanks. - Also for the broth - a leg (add at the end, half an hour before, along with vegetables), then the meat from it will go to the solyanka. Then the vegetables: - An onion (with a tight-fitting husk), and a carrot (if you want, you can add parsley and celery root for a richer vegetable broth, and perhaps parsnip (white root). If you like a celery tone, you can add a celery stalk. but this is from everyone’s personal preferences. For frying: - an onion, - 100 g of smoked ribs (carefully cut off the meat from them and then lightly fry with onions and cucumbers), (or 100 g of smoked sausage, such as Salami), - Smoked knuckle (we also carefully cut off the meat and...! - the skin. It gives a special tsimus to the hodgepodge, like kidneys and capers. Finely chop the skin and fry longer. - 1-2 sausages, preferably smoked, such as Radionovsky, or Hunter's sausages, - 10 - 15 black olives (and if you have “extra” money, then it’s better to have real olives, not dyed, brown in color, 1000 rubles per kg), - remove the pits (so that you don’t break the teeth later. After all, you will eat hodgepodge ", believe me! It will start to crackle behind your ears! There’s no time for the bones. :), so it’s better to take them out in advance. - 2-3 tablespoons Capers, - 2-3 pickled cucumbers (peel and seeds), - 2 tbsp. spoons of tomato paste. (some people like it on natural tomatoes), - (some add 1 tablespoon of flour to the frying. But I do without it), I definitely put the kidneys! I don’t make hodgepodge without them. Just like without capers. It is they, together with smoked meats, pickles + lemon, that create this unique “hodgepodge” taste. - Beef kidney (preferably veal, you can have a couple of lamb ones if you like), soaked in advance for 2-3 hours with changing water 3-4 times, and boiled separately. You can add, if you like it sour, half a glass of cucumber brine (boiled), dry mushrooms, white mushrooms. Three tbsp. spoons - soak for an hour. (you can also “wet” - one large porcini mushroom:) - 1 lemon, - 5-7 grains of black pepper, 3 allspice, - Corriander seeds - 3-5 whole grains. (for everyone) do not make visible changes to the taste palette of the dish (without being crushed), but when caught in a spoon they give a temporary new flavor, like capers or kidneys. - Lavrushka. 1-2 leaves (after cooking we take them out so that they do not give bitterness), - Dry, red hot pepper (you can use “wet” J, only whole, without damage, otherwise it will be spicy. Then you can catch it and squeeze it into a plate who needs something spicier) - Butter 2 tbsp. spoons for frying. - Parsley. (or any other favorite greens. But not cilantro or cornflower. They have a too radically specific taste. They can overwhelm the subtle aroma of this amazing self-sufficient dish. - sour cream, - salt, (I put freshly ground sea salt. Well, I like to twist mill), - freshly ground pepper. (Precisely freshly ground and not this gray dust. Because we need aroma and not spiciness. We get spiciness from red hot pepper). Some people add potatoes. I’m not a fan of potatoes in soups at all. From the broth becomes cloudy and the subtlety of taste replaces satiety. But I eat not for satiety, but for deliciousness. However, it depends on who you like. They also often add carrots to the frying. I don’t do that either. And I don’t want to talk about cabbage at all! We do Solyanka or borscht? (although I also respect borscht, but today we will make hodgepodge). So: no carrots, potatoes, and especially cabbage! However, this is just my subjective opinion. So, let's get started. Cut the beef kidney lengthwise, pour water for 2-3 hours, changing it several times. Then wash again, fill with water, bring to a boil, and drain the water. Then again. And for the third time, pour water and cook for an hour and a half. Drain the water, clean the kidney from fat and other unnecessary things, cut like meat or into slices. At the same time, pour cold water of maximum quality into a saucepan (ideally a clay one, like mine, or a ceramic one, or a cauldron, or a cauldron at worst). First we lower the beef bones + smoked ribs freed from meat and the “planed” shank. Carefully remove the foam. Let it simmer for an hour (or even two or three). Then put the beef on the bones and the pork on the bones + peppercorns. Cook for about another 30-50 minutes. Remove the foam. (To raise the sunken foam, pour in half a glass of cold water. This can be done a couple of times). About 20-30 minutes before the end of cooking, put the onion in a tight-fitting crack, along with the carrots and roots. Then, after 10-15 minutes, the leg. Salt with half the salt. !!!Do not oversalt! We must take into account that there is salt in cucumbers, smoked meats, capers and olives! Especially if you pour in brine. !!!The meat should be cooked over low heat! Then the broth will be clear. !!! — We cook a little less than is required for regular soup - the meat should retain its shape. We watch, piercing different meats with a thin knife. As soon as the meat is cooked, remove it from the broth and cut it into cubes the size of a dice. We throw away vegetables and roots. Let the broth settle for a bit, the dregs will settle. Strain the broth through cheesecloth. (Some do this a couple of times) Meanwhile, while the broth is settling, inhale the aromas and slowly prepare the frying: Frying: Heat a frying pan (I don’t have a frying pan. I don’t like this one I’ll adapt. Although there is a special pancake maker, I only make pancakes on it. And everything else is either in the WOK, or like now in the cauldron. I have three of them. For different purposes. The largest one is for pilaf, basma and dumlyama), we don’t heat it too much ! Otherwise the oil will burn! Fry in butter! oil, finely chopped onion for 5 minutes, with hard smoked meats, then add salted (not pickled!) cucumbers to it, previously peeled and seeded and cut into small cubes (some grate on a coarse grater, but I like the texture. I even chop the minced meat with knives and not in a meat grinder (I also threw it away). I love not only to feel, but also to see! Just like in the bedroom, by God! J) we also fry for a couple of minutes (if you add flour, you can add a spoon now), then turn tomato paste 2 tablespoons. Let them make friends. Let’s not stop stirring! Otherwise it will burn. A few more minutes and turn it off. Cover with a lid and let it sit. Waits its turn and the ingredients exchange aromas. Some people add the juice of half a lemon. Peel the lemon. We cut into slices and half-slices, depending on the size. Remove the pits from the olives (if you don’t want to steam, buy pitted right away) and cut some into halves. ASSEMBLY. And now we begin the process because of which the hodgepodge is called “team”. Now we will “assemble” it from prepared products. Bring the strained broth (from which the meat was removed) to a boil. And we begin to “collect”. First, put cubes (or cut into strips) of meat into the broth (in order for the cubes to turn out smooth and beautiful, the meat must be cooled before slicing) - boiled beef, pork and ham, then frying, cubes of smoked meat from the shank and ribs (softer ones that were not fried ), slices of half a lemon, part of whole olives and half of capers, then half circles of sausages. After boiling, keep on low heat for five minutes, add finely chopped herbs to taste, and after adding the greens, bring to a boil again. Turn it off and let it brew. About thirty minutes. Let my dear one rest... And I’ll probably skip a couple of cold glasses at this time, with the remaining smoked meats, and still grab a couple of spoons of salted salt “to try” from the saucepan. Fortunately, there is no one to give it to... We pour it into heated plates, bowls, tureens, and ideally they should be clay or ceramic with thick walls, warm colors. (I sometimes pour it into pots and put it in the oven to heat. Just like a varic. :) I beat all of mine. We need to buy new ones. :) Put a spoonful of sour cream, a pinch of halves of olives and a couple of teaspoons of capers + half a slice (or a whole) of lemon, sprinkle with fresh herbs (you can tear them with your hands, as I like), turn the mill a couple of times with pepper and... With God ! One more 50 grams (we don’t drink anymore today), and... let’s start slowly tasting this splendor called Solyanka! Depending on what is in the spoon at the moment, the taste and aroma changes. Here in a spoon is a piece of sausage with a parsley leaf, and here is meat with capers, then mushrooms with an olive, a kidney with a corriander seed, lemon with chicken,... well, etc. and every time a new taste, a new sound! And this symphony does not stop until you see the bottom of your plate. Don't ask for more right away. Sit. Don’t drink anything, don’t smoke. Just sit, appreciate the filigree of the harmony, the subtlety of the sound of many ingredients, the major tonality of this exquisite dish. I can’t even believe that in ancient times, this was an ordinary peasant dish, prepared from everything that only the villagers could find from the leftovers and “assemble” their own village food. Bon appetit! PS Again I wrote with my own pens and composed with my own brains, so forgive me if

Source: Eric Pivkin (BEERkin)

Successful comments:

Irina Aksenova The recipe is very original. I have never used kidneys before, always only meat, all kinds of sausages, sausages, even lard. And I always make the broth from a chicken set, the bones are very meaty and the broth is wonderful! I cook it overnight, leave it to cool, and in the morning I remove the congealed fat and fry the onion (two large onions) in it, then the tomato. And I always take a lot of cucumbers from my reserves; for two or three days we don’t have enough. Kidneys were never in our hodgepodge, and potatoes were never put in either. it's not the same anymore. Be sure to have black olives, sour cream from the market so that it is thicker and tastier than store bought, a lot of all sorts of greens, not to mention dry greens for the broth. But my mother adds all the meat that is in the house - pork, beef, chicken, lard is a must for fat and fat. And we always eat two plates. This is the first, second, and appetizer. and dessert. After hodgepodge, you don’t want anything else! Just one more plate!

Sergey Sergeev Eric! Cool recipe for solyanka. I’ve been preparing it for a long time, basically everything is the same, but with some variations. But, as you wrote, this is a matter of taste, relatives sweep away, a 4-liter saucepan “goes to the mountains” in a day, and cooking is well on the pocket, but it’s worth it. I still add potatoes, but not plain ones, but flakes, i.e. instant cooking (of course, without spices) a couple of 4 liter portion bags. a saucepan and another spoon and a half of pearl barley or millet cereal. Millet, as a rule, also comes from instant packages, because... she's almost ready. Cereals and potatoes thicken the broth somewhat and make it soft. It turns out something similar in consistency to cream soup, but thinner. I never add flour to frying. And I definitely include chicken breasts in the meat kit. Nowadays stores sell boiled-smoked and raw-smoked ones. A couple of each of these. 4 liters of various meat products yield up to a kilogram. Well, my family really likes a lot of fresh herbs - dill and cilantro.

Natalia Mamurkova Cool written!!! what about bress? I read from one seasoned cook that solyanka without it, that kharcho without tkemali is rice soup... bress, as I understand it, is an onion stewed for a long time and persistently in the oven with a tomato... something like that...

Tatyana Shulaeva Hello! Yesterday I bought “Carp”, the fish turned out to have caviar and there was so much of it that I just don’t know what to do, my husband turned away from it because it was greenish in color, please advise how to salt it correctly, in the store it is orange in color, how to achieve it and of course good taste!

A very USEFUL answer from the author: Eric Pivkin (BEERkin) 1. Without further ado, usually in such cases I simply fry it whole as it is in vegetable oil, adding salt, pepper and lemon juice. Fry it, put it on a plate, sprinkle with dill, and... have a glass. If the husband is healthy, then in 1-15 minutes the plate will be empty. 2. Yes, you can remove the films (with a fork), add flour or semolina + egg, salt, pepper, of course, mix and fry. 3. You can just add salt))) ..I used to just add salt, but a fisherman friend taught me: How do I do it now? - clean from films (see above), boil good (spring) water, make a SUPERSATURATED (until coarse salt stops dissolving) salt solution (brine) and pour hot (but not boiling!) caviar for 5-10 minutes, stirring constantly . Caviar immediately changes color (for example, carp, from cow turds to soft pink), increases in size (pike is almost like small red, grainy), gets rid of the fishy or specific smell. You let it drain (colander, gauze), dry it on a mat (napkins, a rag) and put it in sterilized jars up to the lid (so that there is NO air left), drive out the remaining air with vegetable oil (what kind? - depending on your taste and habits), just pour in a little butter over the caviar and close the lid tightly. Store in the refrigerator for no more than six months (unopened), and once opened, gobble it up immediately! ))) well, wash it down, accordingly))) 4. - Oh! I completely forgot the new edition: ... you pour the caviar for 5-10 minutes, stirring constantly (for 1 kg of caviar, about 5 liters of brine). In this case, the remnants of the films dissolve in the brine, turning into gelatin. Caviar immediately changes color (for example, carp, from cow turds to soft pink), increases in size (pike is almost like small red, grainy), gets rid of the fishy or specific smell. Then be sure to rinse the gelatin several times with cold water, stirring constantly (until it stops foaming). You let it drain (colander, gauze), dry it on a mat (napkins, a rag) and put it in sterilized jars up to the lid (so that there is NO air left), drive out the remaining air with vegetable oil (what kind? - depending on your taste and habits), just pour in a little butter over the caviar and close the lid tightly. *and further in the text* 5. If possible, clean the caviar from films. Caviar makers: For 1 kg of carp caviar - 1-2 large onions (cut them finely into minced meat, plus one egg.), half a glass of semolina, salt to taste.. (doesn’t cost much), mix and... heat a frying pan with sunflower oil .. use a tablespoon to place the caviar cakes into the frying pan9, you can even use them in the form of fish)) ) NOW THE MAIN THING!!! as soon as one side is fried, turn it over and PRESS IT FLAT with a spatula..!!!!! The caviar should be thin..!!! fry on the other side until appetizingly golden brown... everything))) goes very well with sour cream 6. There is also this option for river fish caviar: Fresh caviar of pike, carp, pike perch - 300-400 grams. Salt, vegetable oil - 100-200 ml, lemon juice - 50 ml, onions - 2 medium onions. We prepare it like this: Clean fresh fish eggs from films (see above), salt them well and put them in the refrigerator for 5-6 hours. Pour oil into a medium-sized saucepan, add caviar and start beating with a mixer. While whipping, add lemon juice and, if necessary, add oil. Beat for 15-20 minutes until white foam appears. Just before the end, add finely chopped onion. 7. Caviar souffle COMPOSITION: 500g caviar (bream, pike, carp, carp, cod, etc.), 200g onion, 50g butter, 2 eggs, 1~1.5 teaspoons salt, pepper, fish spices Remove the film from the caviar. If the caviar of river fish and its film is thin, then the easiest way to remove it is this: put the caviar in a bowl and start twisting it with a fork so that the film wraps around the teeth. The thick film from the caviar of sea fish, such as cod, is best removed frozen - pour hot water over the frozen caviar and then remove the film in the same way as it is removed from beef liver. If the caviar is thawed, then it can be squeezed out of the film as if from a plastic bag. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs. Grate the onion on the finest grater into a homogeneous paste. Place caviar, yolks, softened butter, onion, pepper and spices in a bowl. Beat the whites into a strong foam, gradually adding salt. Gently mix the caviar mass with the whites. Lightly grease a small pan and sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Place the soufflé so that it does not reach the top of the mold. Place in an oven preheated to t=180°C until done. Readiness is checked with a wooden stick. (A soufflé of 0.5 kg of caviar, divided into two forms, was baked for just over 20 minutes). Serve both hot and cold. Well, in general Tatyana, there are many options. Improvise. Hello husband.

Bon Appetit everyone!

Basic cooking methods

The basic solyanka recipe includes the following ingredients:

• 1.2 liters of broth;
• 150-200 gr. any smoked meat/sausage;
• 150 gr. boiled chicken breast;
• 3 pickled cucumbers;
• 1 onion;
• 2 potato tubers;
• 3 tbsp. spoons of tomato paste;
• spices;
• black olives/olives to taste;
• slice of lemon;
• sour cream.

This list of ingredients is by no means exhaustive. There are several dozen varieties of hodgepodge, to which boiled carrots, pre-soaked mushrooms, finely chopped sausages, etc. are added. Do you want to make a delicious hodgepodge? Don't be afraid to experiment, pick up a recipe in this section!

The broth is cooked in advance. It should be cool, rich, but not too fatty. For transparency, it is recommended to strain the broth through cheesecloth. All vegetables and smoked meats are cut into small cubes, onions and carrots are fried with tomato paste. All this is dipped into the boiled and pre-strained broth.

The dish is salted, peppered and cooked until all ingredients are ready. As soon as the potatoes begin to fall apart under the knife, the hodgepodge is ready. All that remains is to add olives, fresh parsley and a slice of lemon. The soup is served hot, with bread and thick homemade sour cream. Simply delicious!

Notes

1. ↑ 1 2 3 Ozhegov S.I., Shvedova N.Yu..
   Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language: 80,000 words and phraseological expressions / Russian Academy of Sciences. Institute of Russian Language named after. V. V. Vinogradova. — 4th ed., supplemented. - M.: Azbukovnik, 1999. - 944 p. — ISBN 5-89285-003-X.
2. ↑ 1 2 3 Pokhlebkin V.V.
   “[dic.academic.ru/dic.nsf/enc_pohlebkin/226/Solyanka Great encyclopedia of culinary art].” - M.: 2005.
3. ↑ 1 2 Skvortsov L.I.
   “Do we speak Russian correctly?”, 1st ed. - M.: Knowledge, 1980.
4. Skvortsov L. I.
   “Literary norm in vocabulary and phraseology”, M.: Nauka, 1983;
5. Pokhlebkin V.V.
   “[dic.academic.ru/dic.nsf/enc_pohlebkin/2104/SELYANKA Great encyclopedia of culinary art]”, M., 2005;
6. [dic.academic.ru/dic.nsf/kuznetsov/59324/solyanka Large explanatory dictionary of the Russian language]. — 1st ed.: St. Petersburg: Norint. S. A. Kuznetsov. 1998.

Solyanka after the bath

A distinctive feature of this hodgepodge from the famous culinary specialist Ilya Lazerson is the addition of shrimp to the recipe. It is thanks to them that the dish acquires a delicate sweetish taste characteristic of seafood, which perfectly emphasizes the piquancy of the hodgepodge. The author does not give a breakdown of the number of products, arguing that this technique increases the possibilities for the manifestation of the hostess’s culinary imagination. The main thing is that the broth is rich and the hodgepodge is thick.

Ingredients:

• Pickled cucumbers in barrels
• Onion
• Sugar
• Beef
• Sausages
• Olives
• Lemon
• Vegetable oil
• Sour cream
• Tomato paste
• Shrimps
• Green onions
• Capers.

Preparation:

Peel the cucumbers, cut into cubes, onions - medium-sized. Place in a saucepan and put on fire, adding a little sugar and pouring in a little water and vegetable oil. Close the lid. When the mixture boils, add tomato paste and simmer. The main thing is to soften the cucumbers.

Make broth from beef. Remove the meat. Cut it and ham, sausages into slices.

Peel the shrimp, cut the lemon into quarters, and chop the green onions.

When the cucumbers soften, place them in the broth, add the meat mixture, capers, shrimp, pitted olives, wait until it boils and remove from heat. Let it brew and serve with sour cream and lemon, garnished with green onions.

And Domostroy has nothing to do with it!

For example, V. Pokhlebkin writes in one place that “in the 17th century. All the main types of Russian soups have finally emerged, and salty-spicy-sour soups, unknown to medieval Rus', appear - kalya, pokhmelki, solyanka, rassolniki - always containing pickling, lemon and olives.”

In another, he easily transfers hodgepodge in general to the 16th century: “the old term - hodgepodge,” he writes, “was recorded in Domostroi of 1547, where hodgepodge has almost the same composition as hangovers.”

Unfortunately, it must be stated that in this case, instinct (and these statements are not based on anything else) failed the culinary historian. Of course, there is no mention of “solyanka” in Domostroy. The term “solyanka” is also missing in the later “Painting of Royal Food” (1610-13). “Rossol”, “rosol dishes” - that’s it. But then, with the same success, the first mention of solyanka can be attributed to Novgorod birch bark documents of the 13th century, where there is the word “salt”.

For example, is this also about hodgepodge?

Novgorod birch bark charter (1340-1360).

In general, this version is somehow not very supported by documents and sources.

Tips for making solyanka

The pickled cucumber brine should be added to the hodgepodge broth. However, there is no need to rush into preparing this component of the soup. On the contrary, the longer you cook the broth, the richer, thicker and richer it will be. The brine component is added when the broth itself has reached a boil. After this, it is necessary to boil the broth for another ten minutes, and the foam that forms on top must be removed using a slotted spoon.

Not everyone loves rich hodgepodge. For such gourmets, the brine can be replaced with a simple vegetable broth.

By adding any grain to the soup, you can soften the taste and make the dish light.

To prevent the dish from becoming extremely spicy, you can replace the brine with simple pickles. But before the procedure, they need to be cleaned and the remaining pulp cut into any form.

The preparation of solyanka soup involves adding fish or meat to it only ten to fifteen minutes before the dish is ready. But the olives should be served in portioned saucers shortly before serving the hodgepodge itself.

But when was Solyanka (Selyanka) first mentioned?

In fact, only in written sources - in the 18th century. And then, of course, it is not yet a soup (stew), but a hot dish of cabbage, cucumbers, meat, poultry, fish, mushrooms or other products. The defining factor is the sour taste, which could be provided by brine and even vinegar.

One of the first in Russian gastronomic literature to give his version of the village is the author, landowner Nikolai Osipov:

Fragment from the book: Osipov N. Ancient Russian housewife, housekeeper and cook. St. Petersburg, 1790.

And here, for example, is a recipe from Vasily Levshin’s “Dictionary of Cooking, Henchman, Candidate and Distiller” (1795):

recipe from the “Dictionary of Cooking, Henchman, Candidate and Distiller” (1795) by Vasily Levshin

And even in the “Dictionary of the Russian Academy” of 1822, solyanka is not the first dish, but the “second serve”. “Solyanka,” notes the dictionary, “is a dish seasoned with sauerkraut, fish and beef, ham, vinegar and pepper.”

Quick solyanka

The dish is prepared quickly and simply, but has all the taste of traditional solyanka. A distinctive feature of the layout is that the smoked meats are added to those that are currently on hand, the quantity is up to the hostess to consider.

Ingredients:

• Sausages - 2 pcs.
• Tomato juice – 1 l.
• Potatoes – 2 pcs.
• Smoked meats - to taste
• Vegetable oil – 2 tablespoons
• Carrots – 1 pc.
• Greens - to taste
• Lemon – 1 pc.
• Pickled cucumbers – 4 pcs.
• Onion – 1 pc.
• Spices, salt, chopped garlic - as per preference
• Olives – 20 pcs.

Preparation:

Cut potatoes, smoked meats, sausages into cubes - into circles. Place in a saucepan, add coarsely grated cucumbers, pour in tomato juice. Let it cook.

Sauté chopped onions and grated carrots with coarsely chopped herbs.

When the potatoes are ready, put the frying in a hodgepodge, dilute with boiling water to the desired thickness, let it boil and add chopped garlic and spices. Simmer over low heat for 5 minutes.

Served with lemon, sour cream, olives.

Not in recipes, but in life - please

Solyanka with sturgeon and capers (Photo by Olga Syutkina)
However, Solyanka is just the case that allows you to look at culinary sources with a grin. That is, it doesn’t seem to be in recipes, but in life - please. Familiarity with journalism of the early 19th century allows us to conclude that hodgepodge soup is quite familiar to the Russian audience.

Here, look. In his description of Parisian cuisine, the Russian journalist-translator in 1809, Fr.

It is clear that the author is talking about French cuisine. But the use of the term “solyanka” in this context clearly indicates that the solyanka soup is quite familiar to Russian readers.

Solyanka: what it was made from then, what it is made from now, useful properties

In the recipes of cookbooks of the 18th century you can only find fish solyanka. Today it comes in fish, meat and mushroom varieties. You can also find mushrooms together with fish. Since the mid-19th century, the composition also includes tomatoes (tomato paste).

Solyanka has an interesting taste. It is a combination of sour, salty and spicy. This effect is achieved by mixing pickles, capers, mushrooms (salted or pickled), olives, lemon and kvass. In addition to the above, seasoning vegetables are put there: onions, garlic and herbs, and pepper for spiciness.

Medicine recognizes the usefulness of this dish. It contains many vegetables that provide vitamin C. It also contains protein, antioxidants, pectin, fiber, calcium and various microelements. All this is extremely beneficial for health and beauty.

Solyanka helps improve digestion. This occurs through a beneficial effect on the functioning of the stomach and intestines. Vitamin C improves immunity. Thanks to other substances, it gives vigor and also removes harmful substances. Solyanka can be tasted both in the factory canteen and in an elite restaurant. Due to its simple recipe, you can prepare it yourself.

Solyanka with sour cream