Caring for figs in the fall, preparing for winter

Why frost-resistant figs can freeze in winter

Before going into winter, there should be moisture in the soil, and in the above-ground part of the plant it should be kept to a minimum.

And it all depends on many factors. It would seem that it couldn’t be simpler: buy a winter-hardy fig seedling, plant it, and after 3-4 years enjoy the sweet fruits. But winter passes, and the seemingly revived tree, even one that has flourished (with all its strength), suddenly dries out for no reason at all. Do you think it's a pain? Hardly! Most likely it froze. And why? Yes, because figs grown in open ground need to be prepared for winter. What can destroy figs in winter? The first is the presence of excess moisture in its above-ground part, the second is an overdried root system.

We conclude: before going into winter, there should be moisture in the soil, and in the above-ground part of the plant it should be kept to a minimum. But this is also difficult to achieve, because you can’t order the weather. Therefore, we take control of the situation. Of course, we won’t stand over the figs with an umbrella, but we will do something significant.

Caring for figs during the winter

In winter, caring for a fig plant is easy. It hardly needs water because it has no leaves during this period. The root layer should not dry out completely, but this problem will only arise if the storage is too warm. At abnormally high temperatures, not only drought, but also pests can become an issue. Insects move to winter together with the figs in the pot and, in conditions suitable for them, can continue to reproduce. So you need to remember to check the condition of the plant from time to time.

For figs, the best place to spend the dormant period is a cool, well-lit room, out of direct sunlight. Usually in the fall, unripe fruits hang on the plant. If grown correctly, they have a chance to ripen in the next warm season. Maintaining the moisture of the substrate in the pot is very important. If the winter storage is very sunny, the skin of the fruit will begin to change color slightly towards ripening, but soon the fruit will fall off the stems and dry out.

At the end of winter, depending on the region, in February or early March, the potted fig tree can be pruned and replanted. The need for work is due to the abundant growth of the tree last year.

How to prepare figs for winter

Do you like juicy figs? Take care of the harvest in advance. After all, it is laid from the moment of planting and formation of the plant. If the fig is planted in a place protected from the wind and is properly formed, this will be a big plus in achieving good fruiting.

Formation in the form of a tree is not suitable not only for the middle zone, but also for the southern regions, since figs are native to the subtropics. The tree is difficult to cover for the winter. But you will still have to cover, no matter how much you refuse it. Without labor there is no fruit, and this applies 100% to figs.

Forming with a bush is much more practical: it is easier to cover, it is easier to harvest, and there is always the possibility of rejuvenating the plant. But the bush is different from the bush. In conditions of dense formation, few fruits will set, because not all branches will equally receive sunlight and heat.

If the fig is planted in a place protected from the wind and is correctly formed, this will be a big plus in achieving good fruiting.

The “Odessa fan” has proven itself well. With this method, 3 main trunks are left, inclined towards the north at an angle of 45 degrees. This way the figs are illuminated as much as possible, and all branches receive heat equally. With this formation, covering the plant for the winter will not be difficult.

Sheltering figs for the winter

There are three main stages:

2-3 weeks after fruiting, we begin to gradually bend the branches to the ground. This operation is carried out in 2-3 stages, at intervals of 4-5 days, after watering, so as not to break the branches and bend them as much as possible in the end. We fix it with twine, pegs, hairpins.
In the southern regions after leaf fall, and in mid-latitudes - during leaf fall, after the first frost, we wrap groups of branches with a breathable covering material, preferably white. These can be white polypropylene sugar bags (synthetic matting), agrofibre, lutrasil, burlap, canvas, old shabby tent fabric, but not cellophane.
We securely fix the insulated branches. You can put some kind of weight or wooden shield on top, or sprinkle it with earth. To prevent the branches from being damaged by mice, sachets of rodent poison are placed in the place of shelter.

2-3 weeks after fruiting, we begin to gradually bend the branches to the ground

The shelter must allow air to pass through, this will not allow fungal pathogens to roam and will provide ventilation during thaws.

It is not advisable to build a greenhouse over figs. At the first thaw (even in January), it will wake up early, premature sap flow will begin, and subsequently, due to temperature changes, the plant will die or weaken and will not bear fruit.

Many amateur gardeners cover figs with car tires, erect entire architectural structures over them, cover them with mountains of earth, and spend a lot of effort, time and health on this whole undertaking. Our goal was to show how to get maximum benefit at a minimum cost.

Using the described method, we told you how to insulate figs for the winter without much hassle, and the survival rate is 90%. So isn’t it better to have 2-3 bushes that are easy to care for than to cut down a frost-damaged tree!

How to cover figs and protect them from pests

Even in winter, the possibility of pest attack and disease cannot be ruled out.

Most often, fruit bushes can become prey for mice. They penetrate the warm mounds of the earth and damage both the root system and the stem itself. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to bury sachets of rodent poison in the hiding place.

Most often, fruit bushes can become prey for mice.

Colonies of harmful insects may also appear, which infect the plant not only during the fig reproduction period, but also during the hibernation season. To prevent this from happening, you need to carefully monitor the cleanliness of the insulation layer. If natural materials are used, insect larvae may remain inside them, which, when the optimal temperature is created, can begin to develop and drink all the juice from the stems of the bush.

Another problem may be fungal infection. Fungal pathogens always choose compacted areas. Therefore, when choosing a way to prepare figs for winter, you need to give preference to the option in which the plant’s shelter has free ventilation, especially during thaws.

How to properly cover and prepare figs for winter

Fig, or fig tree, is a plant that bears healthy and tasty fruits, widely used for food, cosmetology and folk medicine. Few people know that it can be grown not only in southern countries, but also in cool regions. Today, even varieties have been bred that survive at temperatures of -20 degrees. Also in the middle zone and northern zones, the plant is grown in pots. The main condition for successful cultivation of figs is proper agricultural technology, in particular, shelter for the winter. We will talk in more detail below about how to cover a tree before frost.

How to prepare for winter

Preparing figs for winter is included in the list of mandatory measures for caring for the plant if it grows in areas with frosty winters. Even the most frost-resistant varieties can die in winter if important conditions are not met. These conditions include:

Important! One of the guarantees of survival in frosty figs is the correct selection of varieties. The most frost-resistant varieties: “Brunswick”, “Kadota” (withstands frosts down to -27 degrees), “Brown Turkey”, “Chicago Hardy”, “Randino”, “Rouge de Bordeaux”.

Trimming

In order for the tree to enter the winter well, and also to bring abundant harvests next year, it will be necessary to start forming a bush. The bush should not be too thick, because otherwise it will produce fewer fruits or they will not have time to ripen due to lack of light. In addition, the risk of developing diseases will increase.

Familiarize yourself with the features of growing a fig tree in open ground.

Where frosts are not too severe, pruning will need to be carried out as part of autumn maintenance activities. In the northern regions, it must be done in the spring so that the plant has time to recover.

Pruning is carried out with sharply sharpened pruning shears. In the first year after planting, a formative pruning is carried out - one strong shoot is left, and the rest are cut out. Next year, branches that have reached a length of 1.3 m are cut to one bud. After another year, the shoots that face outward are cut back by 50%.

Subsequently, the crown is formed from 3-4 branches, leaving the length of the trunk at 40-60 cm.

Important! The cut areas of the shoots must be treated with garden varnish to prevent infection from entering the tree.

Another pruning method is fan-shaped. With it, until the plant reaches two or three years of age, only branches with damage and frostbite are cut off. Then all the shoots that grow upward are cut off, and the lower ones are bent closer to the ground and spread to the sides. Bending down is carried out after watering in 2-3 stages with intervals of 4-5 days. The shoots need to be secured using pegs driven into the ground and ropes.

In those regions where autumn pruning is recommended, it is done after leaf fall, that is, in the second half of autumn.

VIDEO: FORMING A FIG BUSH CONVENIENT FOR GROWING

Top dressing

During the period of fruit formation, you can feed the fig tree only with potassium fertilizers, which are responsible for the formation of wood. It is important to ensure that the mineral complex introduced in the fall does not contain nitrogen, which will provoke unnecessary growth of green mass during this period. After the tree has fruited, no more fertilizing is done. To avoid causing burns to the root system, fertilizers are applied only after the plant has been watered abundantly.

The fruits of the fig tree are often used in folk medicine, cooking and cosmetology.

Watering

Watering is also an important procedure in preparing for winter. You need to understand how to do it correctly in the fall, since trees that are too wet will freeze, and an overdried root system will not be able to survive the winter.

Before the onset of frost, watering the tree should be kept to a minimum. The last time it is moistened is in September, after harvesting. If the autumn is very rainy, then in order to avoid waterlogging of the root system, it is covered with a film, which is removed in dry times.

Did you know? Figs are considered one of the most ancient plants that began to be cultivated. Thus, the ancient Greek philosopher and naturalist Theophrastus described hundreds of varieties of figs. It’s interesting that he called the best of them by proper names

Frost resistance

Ficus is sensitive to sub-zero temperatures, so in countries with frosty winters it is grown as a potted plant. They can also be planted directly into the ground, but only in the southern regions. After winter, the garden fig regenerates from the root collar, produces many young shoots and has a bushy appearance. Figs take a long time to ripen, so most often they are not suitable for growing outdoors, at least in Russia, Ukraine, Belarus and Poland. A ficus that is properly stored in a pot in winter, even if its fruits have just set in early autumn, will be able to continue to ripen next year.

Since figs lose their leaves in the fall, they quite often manage to overwinter without loss or frostbite. However, a gardener should know the typical average winter temperature in his or her region. Ficus carica is considered partially frost-hardy. Thus, it is able to remain outdoors during the winter months and can even be planted in outdoor soil, but only under special conditions that depend on the region and fig variety.

Is it necessary to cover

It is recommended to cover figs. In regions with warm winters, it will be enough to only insulate the root system with spruce branches, sawdust, peat, that is, mulch the root circle. In areas with cold climates, reliable shelter for the entire tree will be required. Non-frost-resistant varieties can hardly tolerate temperatures dropping to -12 degrees. The least problem an uncovered tree can face is reduced yield. The saddest outcome is complete freezing of roots and shoots and inability to recover.

2-3 weeks after fruiting, we begin to gradually bend the branches to the ground

Figs can be successfully grown as a houseplant at home.

Covering process

The shelter should be built no earlier than the average daily temperature reaches +2 degrees. The root zone is mulched, and the shoots formed by a bush or fan are wrapped with a covering material, preferably light in color, to reflect the sun's rays. Suitable for this purpose:

white polypropylene bags (can be made from granulated sugar);
lutrasil;
agrofibre;
canvas;
sackcloth;
tent fabric.

That is, any light, non-synthetic, non-moisture-repellent, well-permeable material will do. Covered shoots will need to be secured by covering them with earth, strengthening them with weights, etc.

Important! To have less worries when covering, you can take care of it in advance - at the stage of planting a fig tree. In areas with cold climates, it can be planted in trenches, which will serve as a place of shelter during frosts.

Methods of shelter for the winter and from pests

The method of shelter will depend on the method of formation of the bush, planting and climatic conditions:

Earth

Plant layer and roofing material. In areas where winters are characterized by sharp changes between frost and thaw and a lack of snow cover, a good way is to cover the branches with a layer of vegetation, and then with roofing material.
Polyethylene film. Some gardeners build a house out of film over a tree. However, this method is not very good because it creates a sauna effect, which will negatively affect the development of the plant. Therefore, such a shelter will need to be removed periodically to ventilate the tree.
Humus and straw. Another way is to pour a 10-centimeter layer of humus and straw, and then stretch the film over the frame on top and cover the structure with burlap.
Car tires. They surround the tree and cover it from above, thus providing thermal insulation.
Formation of sheaves. Another simple way is to form sheaves from shoots. The branches are collected in bunches and bent to the ground. Then they are covered with boards or plywood and reinforced with an earthen layer.
Thus, for places with a temperate climate, the optimal shelters will be those constructed from tires and other dense materials. It is best to plant figs in a trench in such areas. In colder regions, you can sprinkle the bush with earth or wrap it with matting.
Did you know? Alexander the Great knew that figs are great for restoring strength. He took its fruits on military campaigns
. To prevent rodents from penetrating the root system, bags of poison are placed in the shelter. To prevent harmful insects from getting onto the sheltered tree, you should carefully select natural materials for shelter and inspect them for the presence of larvae. A properly constructed shelter with good air access can prevent the development of fungal diseases.

Features of planting figs and shelter for the winter when grown in the garden in trenches

Often in colder regions, figs are grown outdoors as a trench crop. This method of growing subtropical crops has been known for a long time, but is rarely used at home. In the garden or a specially designated area, trenches are dug about a meter deep and wide. They select a place where water will not flow in winter and during rainstorms. The fig is planted inside the trench. The height of the bush is kept low so that before frosts the branches can be trimmed a little, tilted and the cache covered from above. Lay out a layer of boards, then cover with film, roofing felt (to prevent water from flowing in), and pour a layer of earth or plant remains on top. In the spring, the entire structure is dismantled, sanitary pruning is carried out and further care for the figs is carried out. This method is very convenient and allows you to preserve fig tree plantings in frosty winters.

When can you remove the cover?

The shelter begins to be removed in early April. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the trunk and shoots. For a while, until the threat of spring frosts passes, the plant can still be covered with film or polycarbonate. The main thing is not to keep it in a shelter under the warm rays of the sun to avoid overheating.

After removing the cover, it is important to begin regular care activities - sanitary pruning, watering, fertilizing.

It will be useful for gardeners to learn how and with what to cover grapes, apple trees, thuja, roses, raspberries, lilies, and weigela for the winter.

Thus, preparing figs for winter is an important stage in caring for figs, on the correct implementation of which its health and productivity depend. When preparing the plant for wintering, you should stop feeding and watering in a timely manner, trim off excess shoots and build a shelter. Many materials and methods of shelter have been invented. Each fig tree owner can choose the most suitable one for himself.

How to prepare figs for winter

Preparing the plant for winter begins with the onset of autumn. After harvesting, watering is reduced to a minimum. To prevent water from getting deep into the soil, during heavy rainfall the tree trunk circle is covered with film. After the rain stops, the film can be removed.

IMPORTANT! Excess moisture in the soil leads to rotting of the root system and then to the death of the plant.

The last time figs are fed is during the period of fruit formation. After this, the plant is not fed, thus preparing it for the dormant period.

Autumn pruning has several purposes. In addition to being decorative and high yielding, it allows figs to survive in cold climates. The shoots are shortened to such a length that they easily bend to the ground. In the Urals and Siberia, branches are cut off almost completely. Cover the figs after pruning.

Frost-resistant varieties are mulched with peat, spruce branches, and straw. Thanks to the layer of mulch, the root “breathes”, absorbs moisture and nutrients found in the soil. For heat-loving varieties, mulch is not used.

REFERENCE! Covering figs for the winter is taken care of from the moment of planting. The plant is planted in deep trenches, which protect the heat-loving plant from the cold in winter.

An easy solution to the problem

Many varieties do not require special preparation of the plant, and even more so, their owners do not think about covering the figs in winter. The resistance of a fruit plant to low temperatures depends on many factors. Therefore, standard care may not be enough to maintain the health of the tree. When figs are planted in open ground, the expectation of receiving exotic fruits does not leave the gardener. But it happens that after the winter cold, the seedling, although it comes to life and gives color, can suddenly dry out. The reason may not lie in the disease at all - the seedling is simply frozen. And if these processes took place inside the trunk, then the external damage may no longer be reversible. Therefore, figs require especially careful preparation for cold weather. A competent approach to choosing a method for preserving seedlings will allow you not only to enjoy the blooming flowers, but also to get an excellent harvest.

Figs require especially careful preparation for cold weather.

In winter, the plant may die either due to an overdried root system or due to oversaturation with moisture. To avoid such a development of events, it is necessary to reduce root watering to a minimum before the onset of frost. It is necessary to create an optimal environment for growth, development and wintering.

One way to control root moisture is to cover the soil under the plant with plastic wrap. In this case, excess water will not flow into the hole, and the remainder will quickly evaporate. The film can be removed on sunny and dry days for ventilation. This will allow the soil to dry out evenly and not create soil for rotting inside the soil.

How to prune figs for the winter

Autumn pruning is carried out in regions with a relatively mild climate. In the northern part of the country, it is recommended to prune figs in the spring so that the tree becomes stronger before the onset of cold weather.

In the second half of autumn, after the leaves have fallen, you can begin to remove the branches.

A proven method of forming a bush is the “Odessa Fan”. When pruning, 3 main trunks are left, inclined to the north at an angle of 45°. With this forming option, it becomes easier to protect the figs from frost.

Trimming is done as follows:

1 year. 1 vertical shoot and 2 horizontal shoots are left on the seedling.

2nd year Horizontal branches are shortened by 3 buds and tied to the trunk. For active branching, it is also recommended to trim the vertical shoot.

3rd year. Last year's shoots are shortened by 3 buds and the conductor is trimmed a little. When forming the crown, there should be no more than 5 tiers.

In subsequent years, branches of the 2nd and 3rd order are pruned, maintaining the condition of the tiers.

REFERENCE! When forming figs as a standard crop, 3–4 branches are left in the crown on a trunk 60 cm high. On bush-shaped figs, the same number of branches are left, but the trunk height will be 30–40 cm.

When pruning old figs, fruit-bearing branches are shortened to the second bud to increase yield.

How to properly cover figs for the winter

2–3 weeks after fruiting, the soil in the tree trunk circle should be well watered. Then, after a few days, the branches are tied with a wide ribbon and gradually bent to the ground in several stages with breaks of 4–5 days. The branches are secured with metal arches or twine with pegs. Bunches of reeds and a layer of hay are placed on top. Then the structure is covered with film or roofing felt and a layer of earth at least 25 cm thick is poured.

If the fig is formed in the form of a bush, it is not necessary to dig it in for the winter. After the leaves fall, the branches of the plant are tied with ropes to reduce the volume of the bush. Then the grouped branches of the plant are wrapped with covering material. For this use:

polypropylene sugar bags;

lutrasil;

agrofibre;

burlap;

old tent fabric.

IMPORTANT! Any material is suitable for shelter, as long as it is not water-repellent or synthetic. Synthetics prevent air circulation and release harmful substances.

The covering material is fixed with wooden pegs, stones or sprinkled with earth. The best option is to make a wooden box. At the base of the trunk, for insulation, you need to pour a mound of earth. It is recommended to cover the tree trunk circle with a layer of mulch.

How to grow figs in a temperate climate? Advised by a specialist.

A gardener from the Timashevsky district, Oleg Marmuta, has been growing figs as a cover crop in the steppe zone of the Kuban for many years. On the pages of our newspaper he has already shared his experience of growing this crop. But we have accumulated new questions for him, which we asked the gardener to answer.

A gardener from the Timashevsky district, Oleg Marmuta, has been growing figs as a cover crop in the steppe zone of the Kuban for many years. He comes from the Colchis lowland in Georgia and has loved figs since childhood. Therefore, having moved to Kuban, I was able to tame this plant to our climatic conditions and developed my own growing technology. His collection includes dozens of varieties of figs collected from all over the world. He grows them both in open ground and in a greenhouse.

On the pages of our newspaper, Oleg Marmuta has already shared his experience of growing this crop. But we have accumulated new questions for him, which we asked the gardener to answer:

Question: Has the climate in Kuban warmed enough for figs to be grown as a regular tree, and not as a cover crop?

Answer: No, our climate has not become warmer. In any case, it is warm enough to be considered subtropical, suitable for growing figs as a regular tree.

Those people who planted figs, and now do not worry about covering them, as in ordinary winters, are glad that they need less labor to cultivate them. And the result is pleasing.

But the question is that next winter will come and inevitably the temperature will be, as in ordinary average winters, down to minus 20-25 degrees. And then your fig will say “goodbye!” Those bushes that have grown over the year and began to produce a decent harvest will freeze and be used for firewood.

I also don’t always manage to cover all the figs for the winter. But this simply happens due to lack of time. And most of my figs grow in the greenhouse and pots that I bring into the greenhouse. So I don't take much risk.

But those people who grow figs in open ground and do not cover them for the winter are at great risk. It is imperative to cover figs for the winter.

In general, figs are an absolutely common fruit plant for Kuban. The only thing is that since it is subtropical, it needs protection from the cold in winter.

Question: How do you cover figs for the winter? Should it be hidden in the ground?

Answer: I am often asked: “What, do we grow figs? Don’t you need to cover him?!” To which I answer: “If there was no need to cover, this beneficial plant would grow in every yard.” Indeed, the most difficult thing is covering the bushes for the winter. This baffles many people because of the perceived complexity involved. People think that it needs to be covered with soil, similar to grapes. “How much land needs to be turned over?!” many exclaim.

No need to toss and turn! It is enough to plant the plant correctly, and in the fall you can spend only half an hour at most covering an entire bush. The correct planting of figs in the shelter zone is planting in shallow trenches. There is nothing complicated in arranging such a seat, and in terms of labor intensity it is quite affordable even for elderly people.

Depth - approximately the size of a shovel (25...30 cm), width - 50...100 cm. If the trench is narrow, then the walls can be strengthened with boards, pieces of slate, etc., but if it is wide enough, then it does not need to be strengthened.

If there is a trench, it is enough in the fall to bend the branches into such a structure, pin them to the ground, throw plant debris on top, cover with film and, finally, with roofing felt, slate, profiled metal, in a word, whatever you have. All! In winter, moist and warm soil will not allow the temperature in such a shelter to drop below a destructive minimum.

You can use any materials to cover the figs. But it is advisable that the wood does not come into contact with wet soil to avoid waterlogging.

Sufficient moisture is maintained under the shelter in winter, and there is no threat of drying out. But there is a danger of over-moistening and overheating of the branches. You need to cover the figs warmly and securely enough, but keep them dry.

Since groundwater is very close to my site, I have to cover the figs above the ground. For covering, I use anything: old film, agrospan, slate, corrugated sheets, old leaves. What is not expensive and what is not a pity.

I cut off the excess, tied it into bundles, pinned it to the ground, and covered it. I make sure to lay a film between the ground and the fig branches so that they do not come into contact with the wet soil. And I cover it on top with slate, roofing felt, and corrugated sheets.

If it is not possible to grow figs in open ground, then there is a proven technology for growing them in tubs. From a bush growing in a 40-liter tub, you can get up to 300 fruits per season - that’s 20 kg. In winter, the tub can be stored in a garage or basement at a temperature of +1...+5, and in the spring it can be placed on a balcony, loggia, taken to the country house, etc.

If the conditions are really cramped, then figs can be grown in a simple 3-5 liter pot. True, there will not be enough fruit, but the very fact of owning a fruit-bearing fig tree means a lot.

The dormant period for figs in pots is usually very short - from mid-November to the end of December. Then the plants continue to grow again, and in January-February the ovary appears. Some plants have virtually no winter dormancy - and this property can be used in winter gardens to produce as many as three harvests in one year.

Question: What varieties of figs grow best in Kuban?

Answer: I cannot answer this question accurately, since I only have 4 varieties of figs growing in open ground: “Dalmatica”, “Brown Turkish”, “Sochi-4”, “Lardaro”.

My plot of land is small, so it is simply impossible to place all varieties of figs outdoors. Therefore, it is impossible to test their resistance to our climatic conditions.

All other varieties, and I have several dozen of them, grow in a greenhouse or pots, which I take outside in the summer. Therefore, for me, our climatic conditions do not play a big role. I create the climate for the figs myself. The harvest it brings is quite enough for me.

Question: Since you have many varieties of figs in the greenhouse, how sooner do they begin to bear fruit?

Answer: More than a month earlier. Due to the early start of the growing season, due to the accumulation of heat. Some varieties begin to ripen at the end of May. Mostly from June.

What are the benefits of growing figs in a greenhouse? We often see that in open ground some varieties have delayed fruit ripening and some of them remain green. And the greenhouse gives an extra month for the fruits to ripen. Almost by mid-October, potted figs are completely ripened and there are no green fruits left. With the exception of a few varieties that are very late and heat-loving, imported from the Middle East and the Canary Islands, for example, “Black Madera”.

Question: What is the best way to prune figs for the winter? Which branches should be left and which should be removed? Which age branches produce more yield?

Answer: It is better to cut out branches three years old and older. It is better to leave second-year branches and those that have grown during the current year. The most complete and high-quality harvest is produced by two-year-old branches. They don't take up much space and branch well.

Branches that are three years old and older are no longer convenient to cover; they are large and have thick trunks. The harvest is noticeably less.

Whether or not to remove old branches depends on the method of forming the fig bush. With a bush or cup-shaped form, the old branches are removed. And during cordon formation, when all the branches are shortened, they are left.

Question: What is the best way to water figs?

Answer: I always water by sprinkling, and not at the root. The sprayer is installed above the ground at a height of one and a half meters. Figs respond well to sprinkling. Then the air humidity rises. When the air is dry, fig leaves become hard, rub against the fruits, scratch them, and spoil their presentation.

Question: What do you feed figs with? What fertilizers do you use? What do figs respond well to?

Answer: I don’t adhere to any system here. Whatever is rich, that’s what I use. When I have the strength and desire, and have free time, then I feed her.

I use anything from basic cheap nitroammophoska to humus or herbal infusions. I use what I have on hand.

As a rule, I feed figs at the root, but you can also feed them by the leaf. I combine foliar feeding with spraying against pests.

Figs love calcium. And so that he receives this element, I add shell rock to him and scatter it on the ground around the bush. I also crush and scatter eggshells, or construction or feed chalk. There are any number of sources of calcium. You can use calcium nitrate, a special preparation that is used on tomatoes to prevent blossom end rot.

You may or may not use it. Our Kuban black soils are quite suitable for the successful growth and fruiting of figs.

Question: Do figs have pests? How do you deal with them?

Answer: As for such new pests as the marbled bug, we do not see it in Timashevsk. There is a white leafhopper, but its harmfulness depends on the agricultural background. Where there are weeds, dense plantings, dark corners, it actively develops.

I got it at one time, brought it from Sochi with planting material. I took action against her, and now she is not often found on my site.

A new fig pest has appeared, which I have not yet precisely identified. You may have seen cobwebs appear on the leaves. Under this web there lives a green caterpillar that eats the leaves along the veins. She appeared two years ago. I didn’t pay attention then, since there wasn’t enough of it. And this year there was already a lot of it.

I collected it by hand, because I don’t like messing around with a sprayer and chemicals.

Question: Is it necessary to thin out figs?

Answer: Figs love the sun. Therefore, to plant it you need to choose a sunny place without drafts.

It is highly undesirable to thicken fig bushes. It is necessary to cut out unnecessary branches and shoots in time. If we remove half the branches, the remaining part will give the same harvest, but the fruits will be larger and more sugary. The marketable and taste qualities of the fruit are then higher.

You can thin out figs at any time.

To speed up the process of growth and ripening of fruits, in the spring after the figs have opened from their shelter, you can cover them with agrofibre. Make something like a greenhouse over the fig bush. Then you will get your first harvest faster.

Question: How to protect yourself from the caustic milky juice of figs?

Answer: Figs, when you cut them or pick their fruits, secrete an acrid milky juice. If this juice gets on the skin, you experience discomfort. Because of this, you need to pick figs in long sleeves, pants, a hat, and gloves in the morning and evening hours.

The fruits of the first fig harvest usually contain a lot of milky juice. Therefore, people, especially children, should be warned not to peel the skin with their nails if possible. Because the milky juice gets under the nails, and very painful ulcers form. We must try to prevent this milky juice from getting on the lips. It corrodes the mucous membrane, causing painful ulcers to form.

But the fruits of the second harvest are completely safe. There is little milky juice in them. As a rule, they cannot be peeled. Therefore, they are eaten with the skin. There is no danger to the lips.

S. Sheptun