Dishes from raw meat and fish - what to cook: tartare, carpaccio, ceviche or oysters

A raw food diet remains exotic within the culinary preferences of Russians. We are talking about the raw consumption of those products that are traditionally thermally processed. For example, meat. Thanks to the popularization of Japanese cuisine, now all over the world, including in Russia, a dish of raw fish - sashimi (sashimi is often found, but this is incorrect). The same cannot be said about raw meat, such as beef. We are accustomed to the fact that meat still undergoes some kind of heat treatment. Although eating raw meat in itself is not something very unique:

  • In Italian cuisine, carpaccio - thin slices of raw beef with mayonnaise sauce and spices - has gained worldwide fame. This dish is original, as it was developed in Venice in 1950 by the cook and bartender Giuseppe Cipriani.
  • Mettbrötchen - from the name it’s easy to guess that the birthplace of this culinary creation is Germany. It's simple: this is a sandwich, i.e. crispy bun topped with minced pork with onion, black pepper, garlic, salt and cumin. There is only one unusual thing - the minced pork must be raw.
  • Various types of stroganina: fish, beef, venison. Venison stroganina is a traditional Yakut dish. In this case, thinly sliced ​​meat should be frozen and generously salted.
  • Tartarus. An invention of French cuisine, which the French most likely adopted from nomadic peoples. In a purely French version, the meat is chopped into a very small cube, herbs, vegetables, spices and egg yolk are added.

Beef yukhe

And of course, yukhe or yukhwe (the Japanese say “yukke”), which will be discussed in more detail below. Yukhe can be called South Korean tartare, where French culinary traditions have been replaced by South Korean ones. True, this dish did not come to South Korea from France; it is authentic. Yukhe is directly related to the traditions of raw food, which in turn is related to the fact that South Korean cuisine uses ingredients that serve as preservatives and disinfectants (soy sauce, vinegar, hot spices). This dish is prepared exclusively from beef. Yukhe made from pork or poultry is no longer yukhe. In addition, among all types of meat, beef is the best choice in terms of raw food. There are dishes using raw pork (the same mettbrötchen), but in general it is better not to eat this meat raw. And other types of meat are not very suitable for yukha. Here are a few points:

  • In terms of infectious danger, pork comes first, since pigs are omnivores. Pork can potentially contain a full range of helminth infestations and other pathogens (Trichinella, tapeworm, etc.). Moreover, even with strict sanitary control, it is not always possible to detect that meat is infected with one or another parasite. During heat treatment, cysts and eggs die, but the aggressive chemicals used in the marinade (soy sauce, acetic acid, hot spices) do not harm the parasites. Plus, pork is very fatty.
  • Poultry meat is not so dangerous in terms of infectious diseases, but it also has its pitfalls (salmonellosis, avian flu).
  • Lamb is classified as an ecologically and biologically pure meat, but in its raw form it is very tough, fibrous and the most tasteless of all types of meat.
  • Horse meat has all the benefits of beef, even being a leaner product, but many people refuse this meat for ethical reasons.
  • Venison is also perfectly acceptable, but fresh deer meat that has undergone proper sanitary control is more difficult to obtain than beef.
Raw beef, no matter how surprising it may sound, has a number of advantages over heat-treated beef:
  • Raw meat retains enzymes responsible for the process of autolysis (self-digestion). This is why raw meat is digested faster than, for example, boiled meat - 3 hours versus 6 hours. Heat treatment destroys these enzymes.
  • All nutrients, vitamins, microelements, and fatty acids are better preserved. Beef is a valuable source of iron (hemoglobin), phosphorus and calcium (for bones), zinc (immune system and brain), selenium (coenzyme Q10 synthesis). Beef is high in vitamins B and C. Omega 3.6 fatty acids are essential for cardiovascular health. Beef is a source of essential amino acids that cannot be synthesized in the human body.
  • Raw meat fills you up much faster than cooked meat. In this case, 1 part of raw beef in terms of saturation is equal to 2 parts of boiled beef.
  • An interesting fact is that heat-treated meat leads to an increase in the level of leukocytes in the blood, while raw meat does not cause a shift in the leukocyte formula.
  • Finally, properly prepared yukhe is a truly delicious product that is worth trying.

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Turkish cuisines, but most importantly, Europe has recently appreciated it and it is served in the best restaurants... (Sorry, gourmets, when I imagine such poop on my plate, I immediately want... well, you know. This means that I have not yet matured to European cuisine).

I saw the recipe in the program “Dinner Party” (here https://www.vipstep.com/zvanyj-ygun/296-zy-231.html). The evening at the house of entrepreneur Piotr Sobecki was dedicated to Polish cuisine. I was struck by the national dish Ta*tar - raw beef with a raw egg, garnished with onions, pickled cucumbers, capers and, for some reason, sprats. However, after searching on the Internet, it turned out that the dish is not so Polish after all.

According to one version, tartar was invented in hell. After all, Tartarus was the name given to the bottomless abyss where Zeus sent his opponents. It was there that this dish was allegedly prepared for the first time. In this pope of the world lived the hundred-armed giants Hecatoncheires, who guarded the prisoners. Well, obviously, in order to maintain their vitality, they indulged in tartare from time to time.

In fact, the name of the dish “tartar” comes from the French: tartare - “Tatar”. And what else, according to the French, could the inhabitants of Russia, these wild barbarians, bloodthirsty Cossacks with sabers and dense Muscovites riding in carts, in a word, Tatars, eat? Of course, exclusively with raw flesh. How else can you survive in snowy forests, go after a bear with a club, play the balalaika, cross the Alps and do a lot of other things that are beyond the capabilities of an ordinary person? Considering that the average Frenchman did not see much difference between the Cossacks and the Tatars, it becomes clear why the dish was given such a name.

And the French brought the recipe from Russia, which I have heard about more than once from French gourmets of retirement age. As if soldiers, either during the Napoleonic campaign or during the Crimean War, spied how the Russians cut meat into long slices and put them under the saddle. Already at the next stop, the raw flesh, beaten off by its own heel, was ready for consumption. Well, then there was the eating of the dish with the participation of a giant jagged cleaver and hairy fingers.

The French, admired by the military exploits and prowess of the Russian heroes, decided to use the recipe for the benefit of the fatherland. However, as deeply civilized people, they adapted this wild recipe. They discarded saddles and jagged cutlasses, washed their hairy fingers, and trimmed their nails. We found normal beef, not horse meat, and, of course, added “accessories”: finely chopped onions - shallots, capers, gherkins, herbs, mustard, freshly ground pepper, salt and raw egg yolk.

It was in this form that tartare first became a bestseller in Parisian brasseries, then one of the most beloved dishes of French cuisine, and subsequently an ultra-popular international dish.

Today, there is probably not a single gastronomic restaurant whose menu does not include a brutal meat dish with Russian roots. However, the traditional Tartare de boeuf is increasingly becoming a thing of the past. Today, when the world's best chefs are racking their brains to rethink the “hellish” dish, tartare is made from anything - salmon, beets, duck, cod, crab, avocado and even herring. Thus, Rene Redzepi, the chef of the Noma restaurant, which for the second year in a row was recognized as the best restaurant in the world according to the authoritative British rating The S. Pellegrino Worlds 50 Best Restaurants, prepares tartare according to the classic recipe - from uncooked beef tenderloin. But it is served with onions, horseradish, juniper berries and the symbol of Ireland - the shamrock, also known as hare's cabbage, lucky clover and common sorrel.

Gordon Ramsay, Britain's most successful chef, serves traditional beef tartare with black caviar. By the way, this particular tartare has been one of the most popular dishes on the menu of Gordon’s main restaurant, Gordon Ramsay, on the Royal Hospital Road in London for many years now.

There are also more extreme options. For example, Renato Piccolotto, chef of the legendary Cipriani Hotel, prepares this tuna dish with passion fruit sauce. The famous Italian chef Giovanni Mocci Effisio makes red tuna tartare with peach in Sardinian sauce. And here is the Swede Mathias Dahlgren, the chef of the restaurant Mathias Dahlgren, which many reputable restaurant guides consider the best temple of food in Sweden, made from beef and oysters.

photo and story about the dish from here https://pinnot.ru/recepti/myasniebluda/418-syroe-myaso-po-tatarski.html

The above story is hard to believe, so I still rummaged around and found Tartar Steak, or simply “tartar” (nowadays it is made from fish. Recipes, everything is there https://supersyroed.mybb.ru/viewtopic.php?id= 1815)

European history With the nomadic past of steak tartar, everything is more or less clear. But the beginning of his settled life on European soil causes a lot of controversy. What is clear is that dishes made from raw minced meat or minced raw meat exist in at least three national cuisines: Polish (tatarka), Hungarian (tartare) and German (hackpeter). Plus the Turkish icli kufte - “raw kufte”, but its Eastern roots are obvious. However, it doesn’t matter how exactly steak tar tar came into European gastronomic usage - whether through the nomadic Magyars, Lithuanian Tatars in Polish service, or German merchants who took the recipe from Muscovy. The fact is that it quickly assimilated into the local soil and quite soon from the category of wild food of wild steppe inhabitants moved into the category of haute cuisine - primarily French. It existed in France for several centuries - and only very recently, no more than 100-120 years ago, it first came across the Strait to England, then sailed across the ocean... And from America it began its current triumphal march around the world.

Yukhe recipe

You can taste this dish in specialized restaurants. So, in Moscow it’s Kimchi. However, the yukha recipe is not Top Secret information. One of the classic recipes requires the following ingredients for 2 servings:

  • high-quality chilled beef 400 g (ideally “marbled” grade);
  • pear (Chinese or any other) 1 piece;
  • raw chicken egg yolk 2 pieces;
  • roasted sesame 35 g;
  • chopped green onions 15 g;
  • soy sauce two tablespoons;
  • sesame oil one teaspoon;
  • honey (fresh, not shriveled, or diluted with water to a liquid state);
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced;
  • salt to taste.
  1. In one large container, mix soy sauce, sesame oil, sesame seeds (2 tablespoons), honey, garlic, half the onion and salt.
  2. If there are films on the beef, you need to remove them. Cut the piece into thin strips. Mix with the resulting marinade and let it brew for 7-8 minutes.
  3. Peel the pear, divide the pear in half and cut into strips, distribute evenly on two serving plates, and place the resulting tartare on top. By the way, you can use an apple instead of a pear, or combine it with it.
  4. Make a well for the egg yolk.
  5. At the end, each serving is garnished with the remaining sesame seeds and green onions.

Some gourmets believe that it is better to replace apples and pears with Japanese daikon radish. Yukhe is usually consumed as a cold appetizer. And not just like that, but with a lot of soju, sake, and rice wine. This not only makes yukhe more palatable, but also serves as a certain additional disinfection of raw meat. Many people eat yukhe with forks. However, in Japan, this dish is served in large bowls, which is very convenient for using chopsticks. It should be cautioned that raw meat is contraindicated for people who suffer from pancreatitis and cholecystitis.

A delicacy for the elite: how to cook tartare

There is a contradictory attitude towards this dish. Gourmets say that tartare has a pure, unclouded taste that you just need to enjoy. Their opponents do not share this assessment. They are sincerely perplexed as to how meat or fish can be eaten raw. Let's figure out what kind of dish this is, tartare? Where did it come from? Why is it considered a delicacy? And how to cook it correctly?

Delicacy under saddle

First, let's clarify what tartar means. Translated from culinary language, it is a sauce made from pickled cucumbers or capers, boiled egg yolks and mustard, as well as a cold meat appetizer. In our article we will talk specifically about the snack.

The history of tartare is full of ambiguities. According to the most common version, it was invented by Tatar-Mongol nomads. They placed a piece of raw meat under the saddle and set off. Within a few hours, especially in hot weather, the meat softened and slightly dried out. They took it out, rubbed it with rock salt and ate it with gusto, often without even dismounting from the horse.

French cartographer Guillaume Beauplan tried this strange snack when he found himself in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth side by side with Tatar mercenaries. Just in case, he found out the intricacies of preparation and brought the recipe home. At first, the favorite dish of the nomads caused bewilderment among the French. And yet Louis IX became interested in it and, as is commonly believed, even gave it a name. He saw warlike tribes as creatures of hell, so Tartarus came to mind. In ancient Greek mythology, this is the name of the vast abyss under the kingdom of the dead, into which Zeus cast his father Cronus, the Cyclopes and the Titans.

A hundred years later, French chefs improved the original recipe. They began to finely chop the raw meat, lightly marinate it and add raw yolk. This is how tartare was born, which became the hallmark of French cuisine.

Classic beef tartare

Now let's prepare a classic beef tartare. Choose chilled meat, not frozen, without streaks of fat. Check freshness carefully.

Ingredients:

  • beef tenderloin – 200 g
  • salt and black pepper - to taste
  • olive oil - 1 tbsp. l.
  • onions - ¼ pcs.
  • Worcestershire sauce - 1 tsp.
  • raw chicken yolk - 1 pc.
  • bread toasts - 1 pc.
  • pickled gherkins, fresh parsley and green onions - for serving

Cooking method:

1. Rinse the meat under water and dry well with paper towels.

2. Cut the meat into small identical cubes.

3. Season with olive oil and Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper.

4. Finely chop a quarter of the onion and mix it into the meat.

5. Spray the bread toast with oil, brown it in a frying pan, and cut it diagonally.

6. Place on a plate using a molding ring and make a depression.

7. Carefully separate the yolk from the white and pour over the tartare.

8. Garnish the appetizer with gherkins and fresh herbs. Place slices of crusty bread on a plate and sprinkle the tartare with green onions. Ready!

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